1492 Food

Do you ever walk by a restaurant, make a mental note to dine there someday, and then promptly forget the name? That's what I did, and after a Google search for "that tapas place on Clinton," I met a friend at Tapeo 29.

But I'd meant to go to 1492 Food. (Nothing against Tapeo 29, although it was rather noisy.) So, after a slightly uncomfortable exchange with the host, we exited, and walked down the block towards the restaurant that existed in both my memory and, fortunately, reality.

We loved the place from the first sip of sangria (red for us, but the restaurant also serves white). The waiter brought us a basket of fresh-baked Spanish bread. We were surprised to find that the accompanying condiment was not butter, but garlicky aioli. It was gone in about two seconds.

Although the chorizo lollipops and bacon-wrapped dates called to us, we were trying to eat light, as it was rather late. We began with soup. The special was a sort of zarzuela; it was packed with tender calamari, mussels and shrimp. The other soup was lentil, a nourishing rendition made with diced carrots. "The lentils are perfect; when they're overcooked, they get starchy," remarked my friend.

After the soup, we polished off the escalivada, a plate of dainty grilled veggies (artichokes, red peppers, tomatoes, eggplant) finished off with truffle oil. (Healthy, yes, but delicious!) Our last course was a plate of hearty porcini croquettes. Crunchy on the outside and creamy within, they were served with small dollops of mushroom mayonnaise. The bread came in very handy here.

Once the dessert menu arrived, I realized that our attempt at light eating was about to fall by the wayside. After being tempted by the chocolate molten lava cake, we ended up with the rich, dense chestnut cake (tarta de marrones). It was totally irresistible with its caramel topping and a side of fresh whipped cream.

After a couple of excellent cortados, we agreed to return for the 2-for-1 drink special, which is offered every Sunday, Monday and Tuesday. (Now that the name of the restaurant is established firmly in my memory, it should be easier to come back!)

1492 Food: 60 Clinton St., (646) 654-1114.

Boqueria

Walking into Boqueria, an authentic tapas bar, I thought the only details missing were cigarette smoke and paper strewn all over the floor. "We can't do that," joked Yann, the owner. But there was an inviting counter full of wheels of Spanish cheese and plates of white anchovy toasts, and a few businessmen sat there sipping beer and cafe con leche. I cast a glance over the packed dining area and decided to sit in the more casual section at the front of the room.

Boqueria's menu, organized by portion size, consists of tapas, embutidos (cured meats such as the beloved Serrano ham and paprika sausage), media raciones, raciones and para compartir (to share). Although there are many traditional items such as gambas al ajillo (garlic shrimp) and paella, there's a whimsical touch (there are lychees in the arroz cremoso).

My original intention was to try three tapas, but I was full after one and a half! I had a slice of the tortilla espanola, a nicely browned, sliced potato omelette as high as a deep-dish apple pie. (Note to olive-lovers: a small portion of green and black olives accompanies the tortilla.) I guess I was in a potato mood, so I also devoured the salt cod brandade, which arrived with fried herbs and crisp toasts.

The cook at the bar gave me some white anchovy toasts smeared with goat cheese. He was obsessed with Ferran Adria's 825-recipe cookbook, and told me how Adria had autographed it when he visited New York this fall. Although you won't find cocina de vanguardia at Boqueria, I'm sure you will be satisfied with the excellent, thoughtfully prepared Spanish food.

Boqueria: 53 West 19th St., (212) 255-4160. Happily, the restaurant does not close between lunch and dinner, so stop in for an afternoon snack.

Despana: ¡Que tienda mas maravillosa!

I've just returned from Spain - well, more accurately, Broome Street, but I might as well have been in Spain for all the Spanish delicacies I just purchased and ate! For eight months, Despaña has been plying Iberophiles with all kinds of good things: chorizo, Serrano ham, sherry vinegar, fragrant Primicia olive oil, tuna-stuffed olives in escabeche, cactus marmalade from the Canary Islands, poached pears, Asturian cheese, tortas de aceite, and licorice bonbons. And that's just the grocery! In the ready-to-eat section, there are various sandwiches on ciabatta (some options: dry-cured pork loin with Manchego, spicy chorizo with Mahon cheese and Basque peppers, and white tuna wth white anchovies) tortilla española (two flavors: potato or chorizo-pepper), desserts like requeson y miel (white cheese and honey), and some really great espresso. (There's only one table, so try to grab it!)

Now, please excuse me while I put away my artichoke hearts, ali oli, artisanal asparagus mousse, whole piquillo peppers, and dry-cured fish sampler.

Despana: 408 Broome St., (212) 219-5050.

Cafe Condesa

A few months ago, I visited tiny, eight-table Cafe Condesa, which had just opened. I was amazed at how low the prices were (entrees were in the $8-$12 range) for such high-quality food. Now, Cafe Condesa has been "discovered" - reviews are starting to plaster the window, and it's much harder to secure a little black wooden table - but the prices and food haven't changed at all.

Chef Luis Mota works wonders in an open kitchen which is even smaller than the ones in most NYC apartments. Tonight, as I dipped my toasted bread in a gooey, melted wheel of Camembert, I remembered Mota saying that he begins prep work for dinner immediately after breakfast is over. (If you happen to get to Cafe Condesa for breakfast, you'll find fresh-baked muffins and great coffee.)

The dinner menu includes such items as fresh fettucini with Manchego and broccoli rabe, Spanish meatballs, roasted rack of lamb with a roasted wild mushroom-chimichurri sauce, and my choice of the evening: pan-seared salmon over a bed of sauteed spinach, surrounded by small pools of avocado puree, tomatillo salsa and pico de gallo. The portions at Cafe Condesa are small and elegant, like the restaurant.

I finished my meal with the dessert special: Earl Grey creme brulee. I scooped out every last bit of sugary burnt crust and every spoonful of rich custard. Then I got ready to leave, making sure I had all my things - the last time I ate at Cafe Condesa, I'd been in such a state of bliss that I left my jacket there.

Cafe Condesa: 183 West 10th St., (212) 352-0050.

Fig & Olive

Following in the footsteps of La Table O & Co., the new Fig & Olive opened its doors on the Upper East Side. The two-month old Mediterranean cafe sports an olive bar and a pantry full of extra-virgin olive oil from France, Italy and Spain. Complementary olive oil tastings are offered; yesterday, the tasting consisted of three oils described as "warm and buttery," "peppery" and "crisp."

The cafe serves a delightful weekend brunch; I enjoyed the Mediterranean eggs served on homemade fougasse with marinated raw salmon, dill and white cheese. Other menu items include various carpaccios such as Spanish ham with Aguibal Manzanilla olive oil, and a selection of tartines, salads and soups. After your meal, don't forget to take home a bag of fig walnut biscotti or fresh-baked honey-lavender madeleines.

So if your holiday plans don't include Provence, just hop a cab to Lexington Avenue!

Fig & Olive: 808 Lexington Ave., (212) 207-4555